Ajooma

This whole month has some Chinese event going on somewhere. The Terracotta Army have been guarding the British Museum for a few months now, there are scores of arts and culture events leading up the the Beijing Olympics later this year, and the New Years Celebration. Obviously there are lots of Chinese in the UK. They started living here since the 17th century, arriving in droves around the 50’s and 60’s. According to the Office for National Statistics, there are about 500,00 British Chinese, with 33% living in London. Probably the whole ex-colony thing has something to do with it.

I went to see the Chinese New Years parade and other events around Trafalgar Square and Chinatown. Even though 설날 was 3 days ago for me, I missed having my family around, stuffing my face, getting the old 한복 out, awkward bows, and receiving money. I hate crowds, but this year a friend was participating in one of the dragon pole dances on stage. So I thought I might enjoy a familiar but foreign version.

We arrived around 11:30, half and hour after the parade started, but the route was so long, when we squeezed into the crowd held back by barricades on Charing Cross, it was yet to appear. The parade started at the Strand, went up St. Martin’s Field, snaked up Charing Cross and Shaftsbury Avenue to finish on Oxford Street.

I heard the parade before I saw it. There was a rush of people holding their cameras overhead and shooting from the sky as I tried to push into the people in front of me. I shouldn’t have strained so hard, it was pretty tame. There were are few people in traditional gaudy costumes, a troupe of very agile dancers, a few lions, a dragon streamer poked and prodded into the air, some kung fu, and lots of sponsors. Don’t get me wrong, I’m glad I went, but overall it felt a bit anti-climatic. There was a funny moment when people dressed up in plush animal outfits of the zodiac animals walked by. And the bizarre trio of freakishly masked Chinese looking more like they came out of a horror set.

China is a country Koreans have a funny relationship with. On one hand, historically China has always been a bit like the overbearing older brother. You accept you have to pay respect, but it’s done begrudgingly. On the other hand, Koreans believe they are far superior as they are now economically more stable, and have more street creed on the global market. And then there is the communist factor. I know my grandmother and mother sniff their noses at produce from china, even though it’s far cheaper. (Of course I would rather they buy and eat local too)

Whatever the past and current sentiments, it’s hard not to marvel at the Chinese and their accomplishments. There are so many of them (achievements and people), and they always seem to think big. Bigger is Better could be the national motto. That’s why I was a bit disappointed at the lukewarm celebrations. The parade seemed to have been permeated with the typical British reserve, and it felt they mustn’t allow themselves to enjoy it too much. The celebrations felt like an imitation of a parade, and perhaps that’s what the English expect. The clean up crew after the show was so fast, it felt like they were apologizing for it all, and wanted to forget about it ass soon as possible.

The show at Trafalgar Square was not that much better, but for other reasons. It was too crowded for one, but there was such a smell of corporate advertisement that I felt sick. Gone are the days with a discreet if large logo over a marquee. There were stings of red lanterns adorned with Dreamworks latest foray into CG magic all over the place, tents with logo after logo, and the big screens next to the stage were looping a video for the Jockey Club of Hong Kong. I might be wrong with who were exactly promoting what, which goes to show you the effectiveness, but where was a man on a horse jumping obstacles with a horrible voice over. I stuck around to see my friend, or what I think was my friend as I was so far away from the stage.

I always lament the commercialisation of Christmas, but didn’t think it could happen to Lunar New Years. To me 설날 was always 떡국, catching up with relatives, god awful movies on TV, and more food. I was always bored out of my mind by the 3rd day, but at least it wasn’t half hearted.